Mon Aug 14
Our day began with James attempting to break the bike lock per Javier’s instructions as there was no extra key. In the end Javier ended up coming over around 9am to break the bike lock himself with the appropriate tools. So we just had one lock for both our bikes.
Soon after, we went to Playa Negra. Our little beach dog, Maddi, accompanied us the whole way (about a 20 minute bike ride). She loves going places with us, especially if it’s the beach. We still don’t know exactly who she belongs to, she’s been staying around our Airbnb the entire time we’ve been there. Our neighbor has been giving her dog food and we’ve both been providing her with fresh water.
I had a surf lesson with Javier while James rented a surfboard and went out on his own. I had never surfed before and had very low expectations about my surfing ability. I’m not a great skier or snowboarder and I figured it would be a similar failure. Playa Negra is generally not considered to be a beginner’s beach like Tamarindo, rather it is popular among pro surfers due to the volcanic reef break and the large waves. But Javier seemed confident and not concerned at all about my lack of experience.
And success! I stood up! I surfed! I even managed to control the board and change direction at times!
I totally get why it’s considered the best surfing beach in all of Costa Rica. At high tide you don’t need to worry about crashing against the rocky reef (as long as you stay in the designated safe areas). With consistent and clean right reef breaking barrels, it was pure magic. Of course when I went, the swells weren’t too big. They get bigger depending on the time of day and wind energy.
After the excellent surf lesson, I was exhausted, mentally and physically. I was very happy with my surf progress but was too tired to continue. James was still enjoying his surf session but took a break with me to enjoy some pipas frias (cold coconuts!) Then while James continued surfing, I talked to Alejandro, a local tour guide about possible excursions. Eventually our conversation drifted onto politics in Costa Rica and other countries. Alejandro was quite the character.
Once James was done surfing, we biked up to Mike’s Jalapeño Cafe for a smoothie before doing some yoga and getting massages en la playa. It was so relaxing and much needed after our day of surfing and yesterday’s horseback riding.
Then we had a bite to eat and some drinks at the beachside cafe. I had a passionfruit, strawberry and orange juice smoothie. James had a non alcoholic beer. We shared croquetas de pejibaye y queso de cabra (pejibaye and goat cheese croquettes) and camarones al ajillo (garlic shrimp). Pejibaye is a type of palm tree fruit. The flavor is similar to sweet potato, chestnut and chickpea. It was really meaty and nutty.
What an incredible day of active surfing, relaxing massages and tasty food. Now here’s where things get interesting… Mom and Dad you can stop reading here!
After lunch I started not feeling too great. We biked home (about 40 minutes) and immediately had to use the bathroom. This surely is too much information for the internet, but hey- this blog/travel diary is for me too. I peed bright red blood. It was a dizzying amount of blood. Absolutely shaken, I decided to take a shower while James went to the store to pick me up some cranberry juice and to see if the supermarket pharmacy could give me anything for my symptoms which so far was blood and pain. In the shower, I again confirmed that I was indeed peeing a lot of blood. I was terrified. Eventually I pulled myself together, concentrating on the hot shower and focusing on my breathing. James came back but without cranberry juice or medicine. He did pick me up some kombucha to cheer me up.
We then called a taxi to get some medical attention. Thankfully, the taxi driver came in 10 minutes. He was Guillermo from Tuscany, Italy. He drove an open air jeep that looked ready to go off-roading. He was really friendly and it was interesting to hear a European expat’s perspective on moving to and living in Costa Rica. On our long drive I had to stop at restaurants to pee blood several times. It was probably just my nerves getting the best of me, but at this point I was starting to feel faint. Finally we got to the gates of the hospital but security informed us that it was closed. Or maybe they didn’t deem my situation urgent enough to let us in. I believe this was the JW Marriott medical facility. So we drove another 20 minutes to another town, Huacas.
I had a perfect, better than I could have every imagined, experience at the medical clinic in Huacas. The facility was small but modern and well lit. I signed in and was checked out immediately, no wait at all. The nurses, the doctor, the lab techs, everyone we met was professional, friendly and communicated clearly and in detail. I had a general check-up, blood work, and a urinalysis.
“Oh do you have your period?”
“No, that’s all just from peeing.”
“Oh wow that is a lot of blood.”
30 minutes later my results were in and the doctor informed me that I had picked up a nasty infection. Even though I only started experiencing symptoms today, the “monster colonies of bacteria” showed that I had been carrying it for a few days now. The culture was strong and rampant, but it hadn’t gotten to my kidneys so there really was nothing to stress about. The doctor explained that I would receive an injection of powerful antibiotics, and then I would be on three different types of pills: ones to manage my symptoms for the next 3 days and antibiotics and probiotics for the next week. I should also avoid any water activities for the next 3 days and drink cranberry juice as it creates an acidic environment that the bacteria can’t survive in.
The nurse gave me the injection, right in my butt cheek. Holy crap, it was so painful. It felt like a thick metal needle was jabbed and twisted into me, and I still strongly felt that sensation for the next 15 minutes.
Everything came to about $230. We have travel insurance so I’ll be sure to fill out the claim later.
We took a different taxi back as we insisted that Guillermo not wait for us. Once back we had dinner: rice, beans, tilapia with a mango avocado salsa, and veggies in a garlic chicken broth sauce. I also ate a spoonful of raw garlic and raw honey which supposedly is antibacterial.
Tomorrow is my birthday, let’s see if I’ll make it to 30!