All you need to know about the Odysseus Cave on Mljet Island.
Quick Overview:
What is Odysseus Cave: It is a small, swimmable cave on the island Mljet in Croatia’s Dalmatian archipelago. It is rumored to be the actual cave where Homer’s hero Odysseus found shelter for many years.
How to get there: First get to Mljet by ferry, there are two ferry ports on the island: Pomena and Sobra. Sobra is the closer ferry port while Pomena is on the other side of the island. From Sobra, either taxi (10 minutes from Sobra) or cycle to the trailhead (Put Maslina) which is across the street from the Tommy supermarket in Babino Polje. If you have a car, note that only Sobra has a vehicle ferry. If driving, there is free parking by the trailhead. Once you’re at the entrance to the trail, it is a scenic 15 minute downhill walk towards the sea. The trail is easily walked, the only slightly difficult part is the very end where you are basically stepping down flat rocks. Most people should have no problem.
Cost: Free! As of September 2022.
Be Prepared: The path to the cave is not difficult, but it wouldn’t be so enjoyable in flip flops. Do wear proper hiking shoes or sneakers. Bring your swimsuit and goggles to fully enjoy the experience. Water shoes are not necessary as there is no “beach” or shallow part to stand on. Stock up on water and snacks at the Tommy supermarket before starting the walk.
What to Do: Jump off the ledge into clear blue water! Or make your way slowly but carefully using the “stairs” and then rope. Swim amongst the fish, venture into the cave, marvel at the way the sun illuminates the water. Have a picnic or snooze on the flat rocky ledge. Have a drink at the onsite bar.
Time: To enjoy the whole experience, I recommend at least an hour total including the walk to the cave, two hours is perfect for a little swim and beverage break. You could easily spend half a day here, the area is so relaxing. Beautiful views, great swimming, but not crowded at all.
For Who: Active nature lovers. Those who seek out the hidden gems even if they take a little more work to get to. Families with children can definitely make the trek down and back up. Furry four legged friends welcome too!
When to Go: The afternoon around 3:00 is perfect to experience the glow of the sun filtering through the water. But anytime during the day is ideal, night would be dangerous as there is no light to lead your way. Also, this is a summer/warm weather activity unless polar swims are your thing.
Croatia is well known for its swoon worthy coastline dotted with unspoiled islands.
30km northwest of Dubrovnik lies Mljet (‘mil-yet’), also known as the green island of Croatia. It’s the ultimate destination for active nature lovers. If you’re staying in Dubrovnik, Pelješac, or Korčula, Mljet is an easy day trip by ferry.
Half the island is home to a national park where people cycle through pine forests and swim in the famous bright blue salt lakes. On the other side of the island lies Odysseus Cave, named for Homer’s Odyssey.
As the story goes, Odysseus took shelter in this cave after a shipwreck and stayed for 7 years, charmed by the beauty of the island and seduced by the nymph Calypso. Read more about the tale here.
Fast forward to modern times, this little cave was home to the rare Mediterranean monk seal for a few years.
Visiting this cave was one of the highlights of my Dalmatian trip. You can swim in the deep, blue waters outside the cave as well as venture into the cave itself. The way the sunlight filters through and illuminates the crystal clear water is magical. Be sure to bring goggles- the area is perfect for snorkelling and there are many fish. The flat rock ledge nearby is comfortable to relax on and sunbathe while taking in views of the Adriatic.
It is much less crowded than the touristy Blue cave near Vis where you are only allowed into the cave in strict 15 minute slots on guided boat tours.
To get there, walk 15 minutes on a well marked dirt and rock path through olive groves (starting point is across from the Tommy supermarket in the village Babino Polje).
When you reach the coastline, the cave is just a little bit past the scenic Kalypso bar- a casual yet super instagrammable bar perched on the cliff. Hammocks, benches, friendly bartenders and shade make it the perfect spot for a cold drink after swimming.
